Technique
Why we proof our dough for 18 hours
Slow fermentation is the secret behind our cloud-like texture. Here is the science, minus the boring parts.
Theo BrandtHead Baker5 min read
Most donut shops proof their dough for an hour or two. We give ours eighteen hours in the fridge. It is a pain to plan around, but it is the single biggest reason our donuts taste the way they do.
What happens overnight
At cold temperatures the yeast works slowly, giving enzymes time to break starches into sugars and develop deeper, almost buttery flavor. The gluten also relaxes, so the dough rolls out without springing back and fries up incredibly tender.
We mix every afternoon at 2:00, shape at 8:00 the next morning, and fry from 4:30. That rhythm has not changed since day one.
Written by
Theo Brandt
Head Baker
Theo runs the 4 a.m. shift and is the reason our brioche dough is so absurdly soft. He has strong opinions about butter.
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