Velvet Glaze
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Technique

Behind the fryer: temperature is everything

Why we fry in tiny batches at exactly 175°C, and what happens when we do not.

Theo Brandt
Theo Brandt

Head Baker5 min read

Golden donuts frying in a small batch fryer

A great donut should be light and airy inside with a thin, golden shell and that signature pale ring around the middle. All of that comes down to one number: oil temperature.

Golden donuts frying in a small batch fryer
Six donuts at a time, never more.

The goldilocks zone

Too cold and the dough soaks up oil and turns heavy. Too hot and the outside browns before the inside cooks. We hold our oil at 175°C and fry only six at a time, so the temperature never drops more than a couple of degrees.

Each donut gets about ninety seconds per side, flipped once with a wooden dowel. Then it rests on a rack for exactly two minutes before glazing, warm enough that the glaze melts into a thin, glossy coat.

The dark chocolate donut
The result: a crisp shell and a cloud-like crumb.
Portrait of Theo Brandt

Written by

Theo Brandt

Head Baker

Theo runs the 4 a.m. shift and is the reason our brioche dough is so absurdly soft. He has strong opinions about butter.

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